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Climbers were retreating

By Kelsey Dayton and Angus M. Thuermer Jr., Jackson Hole, Wyo.
July 26, 2010

Two of the three parties that were hit by lightning and rescued from the Grand Teton on Wednesday were descending the easiest route on the mountain at the time of the accident, Grand Teton National Park officials said over the weekend.

The third party was caught on the Exum Ridge close to the summit, according to information provided by rescuers. Rangers rescued 16 climbers from the 13,770-foot peak, while one, 21-year-old Brandon Oldenkamp, of Sanborn, Iowa, was killed when he was knocked off the peak by lightning, officials said.

The accounting was the first to detail the positions of the climbers, their names and hometowns and where they were headed when the storm struck.

Those rescued ranged in age from 21 to 67, park officials said. Two worked in the valley at Signal Mountain Lodge, while the rest came from Montana, Minnesota, Iowa, Colorado, California, Maryland, Florida and Tennessee.

Rangers got first word of a party with injured people via a cell phone call at 12:25 p.m., according to an account by park spokeswoman Jackie Skaggs. As they were gearing up to respond, they received another cell phone call from a second party that also had been hit by lightning. The third group also was able to contact rangers — officials haven’t yet said how — setting the stage for one of the largest and most complex rescues in Grand Teton history.

All 17 climbers were on the mountain’s summit pyramid above the Upper Saddle, a col at about 13,200 feet where the climbing on the Owen-Spalding route becomes more difficult and exposed.

On Friday, Matt Walker, 21, who is working this summer at the Yellowstone Club in Big Sky, Mont., told of how his party of four was trapped high on the Exum Ridge by the storm that pounded the summit block with lightning, hail and snow for about two hours. Walker said his group was expecting afternoon thunderstorms and was on schedule to be off the mountain by 12:30 p.m. when a squall caught the team near the summit.

A larger storm then hit the peak, eventually shocking all members of the three parties.

Walker said that after his group was struck, all agreed that Andrew Larson, 23, of Bozeman, Mont., should go down the Owen-Spalding route for help because he was the least affected. Alan Kline, 27, also of Bozeman and a certified mountain guide, then began lowering and setting up rappels for Walker and Bozeman resident Elizabeth Smith, 26, both of whom were hobbled by injuries.

The three got partway down to the Upper Saddle before rescuers reached them.

Meanwhile, a party of five was descending the Owen Chimney, also above the Upper Saddle, according to information supplied by Grand Teton officials. There was no word as to whether they had reached the summit.

Two from that group — Steve Tyler, 67, and Henry Appleton, 31 — work at Signal Mountain, according to information provided by park officials. Others in the group were Mike Tyler, 41, of San Diego, Dan Tyler, 40, of Pembroke Pines, Fla., and Troy Smith, 40, of Odenton, Md.

Oldenkamp’s ill-fated party of eight — the third and lowest group — was at the Belly Roll of the Owen-Spalding route and also descending, according to park information. The Belly Roll boulder is the last significant obstacle the climbers would have had to pass to reach the relative safety of the Upper Saddle and easier terrain.

In addition to Oldenkamp, members were Greg Sparks, 55, of Mountain Village, Colo., Barry Sparks, 52, of Newton, Iowa, Dave Stenzel, 48, of Heron Lake, Minn., Tim Vogelarr, 53, of Adamsville, Tenn., and John Armstrong, 39, Cameron Johnson, 41, and Bob Miller, 54, all of Worthington, Minn.

Park rangers evacuated seven climbers from the summit pyramid using the “short haul” method during which they were hoisted off the peak, usually two at a time, while dressed in body harnesses and suspended by a line beneath the hovering rescue helicopter.

Without landing, the pilot ferried them to the 11,600-foot Lower Saddle, where they were attended to by a doctor and medics before being shuttled to the valley floor inside one of two helicopters.

Seven climbers made their way down to the Upper Saddle with help from Exum Mountain Guides. According to a list provided by the park, 10 guides helped that group. All were then able to scramble down to the Lower Saddle, where they, too, were flown to the valley floor.

Two climbers descended to the Lower Saddle by themselves and were helicoptered down to the valley.

Fifteen Jenny Lake climbing rangers were involved in the rescue, along with eight other rangers and 24 emergency medical workers, including two doctors and 13 members of Jackson Hole Fire/EMS. There were nine on the helitack crews that flew or supported two airships. In all, more than 80 worked on the rescue.



 
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